Thursday, March 23, 2017

Capturing Beautiful: Film Week at the Estancia


Living in Argentina has caused my life to become a series of ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ experiences and opportunities, to the point that I sometimes catch myself taking it for granted and let the moment pass me by.  Waking up to horses outside my window, playing with weeks-old foals, listening to traditional Argentine music, drinking wine in the evening while chatting with a host of international guests, sharing a meal with the gauchos, racing through the tall grass as wind whips my hair around my face.  All of these have become regular occurrences in my life here, and I for a while I became complacent about appreciating them.  However, a few weeks ago we had a film crew come to the estancia for a couple days in order to shoot footage for a promotional video.  Little did I know that a simple 60 second video would require four days of shooting, weeks of editing, and lead to me to renewed awe of what my life has become.



How often does a person get to see a stamped of about 130 horses?  Usually, stampeding horses is a signal that something is going terribly wrong and everyone should be scrambling around trying to resolve the situation and calm the horses.  However, in this case, we were able to sit back and enjoy the horses streaming by, secure in the knowledge that this was a planned event and that there are a handful of skilled gauchos on horseback managing the situation.  So, at about 7am, just as the sun established its presence on the horizon, a crowd of us – three guests, two bosses, four guides, one manager, three film crew members, and one dog – stood expectantly staring into the distance, anticipating what was about to happen.


We heard them well before we saw them.  And we felt it well before we heard it.  The ground vibrating beneath us, being trampled by the oncoming horses.  A second later, we could hear the horses’ hooves pounding the dry earth as they raced towards us.  Then came the distinct calls of the gauchos urging the horses on; a uniquely distinctive combination of whistles, whoops, screams, and hollers.  The gauchos were loving this moment and taking full advantage of demonstrating their skills as fearless horsemen.  Then, the first ears appeared on the horizon, silhouetted against the rising sun.  All ~260 ears were perfectly alert, focused on the ground before them and the crowd awaiting their arrival.  The horses came flooding over the hilltop then appeared to fly through the tall grass towards those of us at the bottom.  Manes and tails were streaming out behind them and catching the light of the sun to magnify the beauty of the moment.  Lou, the Lady of the Estancia, was trying to take pictures but couldn’t, due to the fact that she was so overcome with emotion that she started crying and couldn’t focus through the lends.  Meanwhile, I was desperately pushing my shutter button and adjusting my settings in a fruitless effort to capture the movement of the horses and pure awe of the moment. 


Never in my life have I witnessed something like this before.  You could almost imagine that this was a herd of wild horses that the gauchos were rounding up to take back to their estancia to break and train.  Incredible, magnificent, unbelievable, splendid, and stunning can’t even begin to sum up this moment.  It was totally worth the 6am wake up and subsequent stumble through the darkness to get to the main house.  As the morning light seeped over the hills and filled the valleys, the gauchos and horses did a few more passes: darting through the pampas grass, gracefully galloping over the flat fields, and eventually disappearing behind the hill that they first came over.  This sight left all of us a bit breathless and it took a few minutes to come back from this fantasy and be able to enter the workday. 



The next few days were a blur of constant activity.  Usually we just go out on rides, make it up as we go, and don’t have much to worry about beyond the safety of our guests and horses.  However, on these days we had to coordinate our movements with the film crew so that they could capture our experience on camera.  Radio messages were flying back and forth on the ground, while a drone was flying in the sky, scanning the area below. One of the aspects of riding that they wanted to capture was the process of herding cattle and bringing them in to the cattle station.  This is something that we do once or twice a month with guests and actually serves a practical purpose.  Sometimes the gauchos need to administer vaccines or do health checks, other times we need to castrate or brand the young calves.  Point being, this is not something that we do just for show; this is actually a working cattle ranch.


On this particular day, we were gathering about 250 hundred cattle to take them to a salt lick area, then on to the cattle station, Chiviquin.  While herding cattle tends to be less thrilling than watching a herd of stampeding horses, it is interesting in its own way, especially for guests who have never taken part in cattle work before.  As we set off from the estancia, we were on our own – taking our time collecting stray cattle and adding to the bellowing herd.  It was a morning of chasing runaway calves, going into trenches to chase cows, then lazily following the slow-moving herd.  The soundtrack for the morning was the constant bellowing of cows: calves left behind, cows trying to locate their calves, and bulls moaning at being disturbed.  However, as we came closer to Chiviquin, we realized that we were no longer alone.  It sounded like a swarm of bees overhead, but if one was to look up, they would realize that it was the drone, hovering above us and watching our every move. From the sides, other gauchos appeared with more cows, lending a measure of authenticity and credibility to our activity.  As we joined herds and pushed the cows into the cattle station, we must have looked somewhat impressive.  Nearly 300 cows surrounded by a posse of four gauchos, a few guests, and two guides.  As we approached the film crew, the cows flowed around them, bellowing their annoyance then continuing on. It will be interesting to see what kind of images and sounds the crew recorded during this outing. 


Throughout their time at the estancia, the film crew spent a lot of time recording footage to illustrate other aspects of the ranch such as dining, social interactions among staff and guests, as well as the beauty of the estancia.  However, since I did not take pictures of that stuff, you don’t get to learn about it :p You will just have to wait for the video to come out.


The final part of filming, in regards to riding, centered around polo.  Because we only had one guest at this point, we called in outside help in the form of Belen, one of Lou’s friends and the first female professional polo player in this province.  She is a tornado with two feet – full of energy, always ready to roar with laughter, and totally intimidating on the polo field.  She is fantastic.  Belen brought up some of her friends as well so that we would have enough people to field two polo teams and even have some extra players.  When we got to the polo field, the first step was to introduce the horses to the drone.  The operator wanted to fly low to the field for the best shots, but we didn’t want one of those shots to be of a horse going crazy and sending a rider flying through the air.  As the drone operator hovered the drone about 20 feet off the ground, the players slowly walked towards it with their horses until the horses no longer cared about it.  Game on.



For the next hour, we raced across the polo pitch in pursuit of that tiny white ball, while overhead, the drone chased after us attempting to capture the action.  One of my favorite snapshots from this day was of the gauchos peering over the shoulder of the drone operator, transfixed by the images on the screen and the capabilities of the drone. It was a total clash of old school tradition and new school technology.  Admittedly, I was pretty curious myself; I had never seen a drone in action before this week.  They are pretty incredible and the footage was amazing!  I cannot wait to see how the video turns out.  Anyway, that about sums up Film Week.  Four days of hard work, not wearing my neon orange shirt, making sure we actually shower before meals, and trying to fit all of the estancia’s activities into three days; when the video is produced we shall see if it all paid off. 







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